![]() You know this is like asking a parent who their favorite child is, right? Well, I do have a few favorites, but I’m always discovering new clematis that I love as well. See? That wasn’t so hard, was it? The best visual aid I’ve found is on Margaret Roach’s website.Īs for winter care, well, there is none. Just prune them back to one or two buds from the base in early spring or late winter. Group 3: I love Group 3s because they are easy. Some Group 2s can be pruned again after flowering and they may rebloom in late summer or early fall. One third of the stems get cut back to about one or two leaf buds from the base, one third gets pruned to about half their length (height?) and the last third remains unpruned. I prune these in early spring, when buds begin to swell, following a rule of thirds. Group 2: These are probably the most common kind of clematis and the ones people think of first. If you need to prune for another reason, do it after they bloom. Group 1: These bloom on old wood, so you only need to prune out dead or damaged stems. If you’ve lost the tag and can’t remember the name, you’ll have to do a little detective work, but it’s best to just let it go for a year, observe how and when it blooms and make note of it for the next year. ![]() The plant tag should tell you what pruning group they fall into or you can look it up by the name of the plant. They are divided into groups and that dictates how and when you prune them. You need to know what kind of clematis it is. The worst case scenario is that you’ll either have few flowers or all the flowers will be very high up in the air. Pruning is the part that throws everyone for a loop, but the good news is that you won’t kill your clematis if you do it wrong. It’s a Group 3 clematis, meaning it is cut back all the way each spring. ‘Etoile Violette’ blooms profusely up the deck stair railing. I know it’s hard, but you want it to worry about roots, not flowers or stems right now. If it’s not already been cut back, you need to cut those vines back. Mulch well.Īnd then, you need to do the hard part. I can report that all are doing well, but in the future I will probably plant them shallower.)įill in the rest of the soil and water it in really well. I’ve read that as well, but I read it after I had already planted many bush types deeply. (Edited to add: A kind commenter brought up that some people do not recommend this deep planting method for non-vining bush-type clematis. Place the clematis on a 45-degree angle toward whatever it will be growing up, with the crown buried 3 to 4 inches under the finished level of the soil. Add in compost, well-rotted manure (it should not have a smell), a small amount of Espoma Rose-Tone and the soil you dug out. Dig a big hole, far bigger than the plant: about three times the width and twice the depth. You will find variations on this technique and I suspect they all work, but I stick with what works for me. This is what I want to see in spring: A happy clematis with oodles of stems emerging from the ground.
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